Photo: iStock/Falk Kiennas
Sun rise over Retezat. Thick Curtains of fog rise and fall, revealing ever changing views for the hiker’s eye to behold: The three peaks of Peleaga (2,509m), Papusa (2,508m) and Custura (2,457m ) puncture the clear sky. Below, Lake Bucura reflects the snow-covered peaks like a mirror - and in the distance the beautiful Taul Dintre Brazi Moor still slumbers in the mountain shadows.
Retezat means “split mountain” in Romanian, and according to legend, a giant’s bludgeon once hit the ridge, splitting it into two halves: The “Big Retezat,” with its high granite alpine landscape and the “Little Retezat,” dominated by rounder and softer mountains replete with limestone caves and Alpine meadows. With a wide variety of endangered and endemic plants and spectacular wildlife, - including the bear, the marmot, the viper, the chamois and the wildcat,- Retezat national park is included in the UNESCO network of biosphere reserves.
In the park’s surroundings ancient Dacian settlements, medieval orthodox churches and Transylvanian castles make excellent day trips.
The Retezat mountain ridge resembles a gigantic stone fortress. More than sixty of its peaks are over 2,200 m, culminating in Mount Peleaga, with an altitude of 2,509m, from where hikers enjoy the view of the surrounding peaks, like Mount Papusa (2,508m) and Custura (2,457m).
There are more than 80 glacial lakes in the Retezat mountains. In Summer some of the lakes dry out but in winter they are covered with ice and snow. Retezat’s largest lake is Lacul Bucura at an altitude of 2,041 metres. It’s also the largest glacial lake in Romania.
Extraordinary passes, gorges, cavernous limestone caves and sinkholes can be found in the limestone area of the Retezat (the Small Retezat).
Botanists and flower lovers will see a wide variety of wildflowers in their natural ecosystems, well preserved in the Small Retezat, such as Hieracium or Gentiana.
There are sky-scraping peaks, deep ravines and ice-scoured parable synclines decorated with glacial lakes and always, the incredible blue sky. More than 1/4 of the mountain is above the 1,800 m timberline and glaciers have created terraced valleys that end in magnificent glacial bays, lakes and waterfalls.
The 10th century Densus Church, in the village of Densus is one of the oldest orthodox churches in Europe and is still used for religious services today. Most of its material was taken from the neighbouring Roman town of Sarmisegetuza. Some stones still show the Latin inscriptions. Fine frescoes can be seen in the Sântămăria Orlea Orthodox Church (13th century) near Hateg and in the Prislop Monastery (14th century) in Silvasu de Sus, which serves as a convent and school today.
Close to the national park are the ruins of Sarmisegetusa Ulpia Traiana, which used to be the most important town of the ancient Dacians and later turned into the capital of Roman Dacia. The 14th century Colt Fortress used to be the most powerful fortress of Transylvania in the middle ages and inspired Jules Verne’s novel “The Carpathian Castle”. It’s not easy to climb up the winding path to the ruins but you’ll be rewarded with a terrific view. The medieval ruins of the Malaisesti Forth (14th century) are also worth a visit.
Local communities and cultural sights around the park add a special value to the landscape and biodiversity inside the park. Three communes/communities are on the edge of the park, having land-use rights in the alpine pastures for their livestock. These are Salasu de Sus, Rau de Mori and Campu lui Neag. People in these communities still practice traditional agriculture and preserve some of the traditional lifestyle of the area.
The history of the area dates back to the dinosaurs: archeologists have found the remains of the smallest dinosaur on the outskirts of the park. Evidence of Stone Age human populations has also been found in the area.
There are 32 marked trails in the park, ranging from short day hikes to 20-hour treks. Maps are available at the visitor centres. The most visited section of the park is along the main axis between Cabana Pietrele and Cabana Buta, with Lake Bucura and Peleaga Mountain close at hand. Retezat also fits beautifully into longer trekking routes connecting the neighbouring massifs.
Have you ever heard a flycatcher whistle or the deep call of an eagle owl? More than 120 species of birds nest in Retezat national park, among them such rare birds as the golden eagle or the chiffchaff.
January is the coldest month (with temperatures between –11 and +5 OC), July is the warmest (between +16 and +6 OC) below 1,800m, and August at higher altitudes. The lowest temperatures can be measured on the Peleaga, Păapuşa, Retezat, Bucura peaks. Important to know, that the weather in Retezat is very changeable. Even in summer the temperature can be under 0OC in the alpine areas (2000-2500m). It has been known to snow in July.
Because the weather is very changeable it’s a good idea to take the following in all seasons: boots, coats, backpack and a flashlight
http://retezat.ro/index.php/english/tourism/tourist-map.html
The main international airport is Bucharest, though more and more flights are available to Timisoara or Sibiu. Train or car hire provide the best means of getting from the airport to the park.
There are regular mini buses from Petroşani to the southern park entrances: Buta and Cheile Buţii (1 ¾ hours). For the northern park entrances in summer there are mini buses from Ohaba de sub Piatră to Cârnic (¾ hours). There is no regular public transport for Gura Apei and Râuşor park entrance.
For the northern park entrances: Cârnic, Râuşor, Gura Apei, there are two railway stations: Subcetate (fast and slow trains) and Ohaba de sub Piatră (only slow trains).
Travel time from Bucharest to
Ohaba de sub Piatră - 7 ½ to 9 ½ hours
Subcetate (direct train)- 7 ½ hours.
Travel time from Timisoara to
Ohaba de sub Piatră – 4 to 4 ½ hours
Subcetate (direct train) - 4 ½ hours
For the southern park entrances: Buta, Cheile Buţii, Câmpuşel, there are two rail stations: Petroşani and Lupeni (difficult to find good connections).
Travel time from Bucharest to:
Petroşani – 6 hours
Lupeni – 7 to 10 hours
Travel time from Timişoara to:
Petroşani – 6 hours
Lupeni – 7 hours
Given its geographical position, Retezat massif can be accessed from two directions: Haţeg and Jiu Valley. To Haţeg you can drive from Deva (50 km) on National Road 66 (DN 66 on route Deva-Simeria-Hateg), or coming from Caransebeş, on DN 68 (Caransebeş-Haţeg). You can arrive in Jiu Valley coming from Deva on DN 66 (on route Deva-Simeria-Haţeg-Pui-Petroşani), or you can come from Tg. Jiu on the same DN 66 (on route Filiaşi-Tg.Jiu-Petroşani).
From Haţeg and Petroşani there are multiple ways to enter Retezat massif. Haţeg Valley access routes:
-Haţeg-Râu de Mori-Gura Apei-Poiana Pelegii (63km)
-Haţeg-Râu de Mori-Râusor route (33km)
-Haţeg (to Petroşani direction)-Ohaba de sub Piatră-Cârnic (28km).
Jiu Valley access routes: You can arrive on Jiu Valley coming from Deva, on DN 66 (Deva-Simeria-Haţeg-Pui-Petroşani route - 100km), or coming from Tg. Jiu, on same DN 66 (Filiaşi-Tg.Jiu-Petroşani route).
There are a couple of routes from Petroşani to the park entrances:
-Petroşani-Lupeni-Uricani-Câmpu lui Neag-Cheile Butii (40km)
-Petroşani-Lupeni-Uricani-Câmpu lui Neag-Câmpusel (60km)
The park area can be approached from the North (Carnic, Rausor), the East (Hobita, Baleia, Stana de Rau), West (Gura Zlata, Gura Apei) or from the South (Buta, Cheila Butii, campusel).
Two visitors centers were opened in 2006, one in Nucşoara and the other one in Ostrovel (Râu de Mori). Beside those there are two tourism information points: one in the south- Buta (on the Jiu de Vest Valley, close to Câmpu lui Neag village) and the other one in Bradetel (on the Râu Mare Valley).
The main visitor center in Nucşoara has a display with information about Retezat National Park and an educational area. Eight rooms at the visitor center Nucsoara are used as accommodation for educational camps.
The National Park Headquarters are located in the main visitor centre in Nucşoara. They provide a focal point to find out about the activities and tourism possibilities in and around the park. Admission to the park is free.
- Qualified mountain guides - English, Hungarian speaking
- Specialised guides (fauna&flora, wildlife watching) - English, Hungarian speaking
- Mountain rescue, with watchpoints during tourism season
For those new to the Retezat Mountains it is recommended that you employ the services of a guide if you wish to explore the alpine areas. The national park visitor centre can help you make contact with a range of qualified mountain guides. Both English and Hungarian speaking guides are available.
Specialised guides are available for those who would like to discover the flora and fauna of Retezat National Park. Their knowledge and experience can help make the most of wildlife watching possibilities. During the main tourism season, watch points are manned by members of the mountain rescue team.
Marked trails to guide visitors, which must be followed not only for security reasons, but also for conservation reasons. Maps can be bought at the entrance points at Gura Apei/Rotunda, Gura Zlata, Rausor, Carnic, Buta.
There is an educational trail at Râuşor, with an informational leaflet in Romanian and English.
Tourist Retezat National Park Map can be bought at park entrances and accommodation sites.
An introductory, 22-kilometer-long two-day roundtrip over some of the main mountains and glacial lakes in the central heights starts and ends in Cabana Pietrele. The route follows various signs: yellow stripe: Cabana Pietrele – Mount Retezat – Mount Bucura I – Bucura gate - Bucura Lake; blue stripe: Bucura Lake – Bucura Saddle; red stripe: Bucura Saddle - Mount Peleaga – Peleaga Saddle – Zanoagelor Saddle – Gales Valley – Gales Lake (under Mount Varful Marea); red triangle: Gales Lake (under Mount Varful Marea) – Gales Valley – Cabana Pietrele. Camping on the way is possible at Lake Bucura.
Bikes and skis can be rented from Retezat Tourism Association. For more information go to www.tourismretezat.ro or call 0723 392 210.
Call Salvamount, the mountain Rescue service 0725826668 or the emergency number 112.
The visitor centres and information points are accessible for disabled.
• Keep to the marked trails so that you don’t get lost and can be helped if needed.
• Please take all your waste with you including biodegradable matter. Keep a plastic bag with you to collect all your waste. You are helping Retezat by taking it out of the park and to the nearest garbage container. In this way you will help in the prevention of Retezat's bears eating food from supermarket bins and searching for food in your tent.
• Camp only in permitted places, without digging and destroying any plants to make your bed;
• You will really help Retezat if you cook your food on a gas stove without starting any wood-fires;
• Be aware of trampling on any plants, even if, to you, it is only a useless weed; it could be an endemic plant.
• Leave your dog at home and if you cannot stay away from it, always keep it on a leash to stop it from disturbing wild animals and their cubs;
• You are protecting the species that live in the waters of Retezat if you do not wash with soap or detergents; Even in summer it is dangerous to bathe in alpine lakes; do not risk your life for a short bath;
• Protect the animals even if some of them may seem to be pests or dangerous. For example, do not kill vipers, just turn and avoid them. You can be sure that they will not start running after you;
• Leave everything (sign posts, indication arrows, mountain refuges, etc.) as you find it, because they are of great help to those in need;
• Walk every path without screaming or making unnecessary noise, so that you will have the chance to see the animals that live here. Leave your stereo and CD-player at home. Replace them with binoculars, cameras and a flashlight. They will be of better use, and your bag will be lighter.
• Camping places, mountain refuges and shelters are not appropriate place to get drunk and to disturb other tourists who need rest.
• In Retezat National Park, vehicles such as ATVs, snowmobiles, cars, even 4x4 are not allowed. Bikes are allowed only on the roads, not on the mountain trails. Ask Retezat National Park Administration about the roads were the vehicle/bike access in permitted.: office@retezat.ro
Tourists can use only designated camping sites inside Retezat National Park.
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Come to see the new information centre in Retezat 06 April 2009
A new interactive-educational path; seven micro-habitats recreated for distressed animals; and a new information centre with display panels on alpine plants and animals - all these are ready for visitors at Pietrele, the most important entrance point at Retezat, the Romanian PAN Park.
A renovated building has been completely made over into a new...more |
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New Local Partners in Retezat receive certification 24 February 2008
An award ceremony has taken place to award certified local partner status to the first eight members of the Retezat Local PAN Park group. Certification has taken place following the development of the Sustainable Tourism Development Strategy. The standards used for assessing the eco-certified status of the businesses were those developed by the...more |
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Retezat National Park hosts European Rangers' Seminar 2007 05 December 2007
About 120 Rangers from 17 different countries spent one very eventful week in September, in Retezat National Park, Romania.The slogan of the seminar was "Naturally, wild", and naturally, rangers stayed most of the time outdoors in Retezat NP (RNP). Rangers also enjoyed the wonderful wilderness in Gemenele Scientific Reserve, part of RNP.Different...more |
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PAN Parks Sustainable Tourism Development Strategy Used as Best Practice in Romania 10 July 2007
Romania's National Forest Administration, Romsilva, has elected to use PAN Parks Sustainable Tourism Development Strategy (STDS) as a best practice model to follow and apply throughout its protected areas. The STDS was originally developed with Romania's Retezat NP as part of the PAN Parks process, however Romsilva believes the country's...more |
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Sustainable Tourism Development in Retezat progresses 07 May 2007
A recent meeting took place near Retezat National Park in Romania to progress the implementation of the sustainable tourism development strategy created through the PAN Parks process. The event included representatives of Local PAN Parks Group, several possible new PAN Parks local business partners, Retezat National Park Administration, Hateg...more |
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Student involvement in PAN Parks 02 December 2006
Over the last year as part of the work of PAN Parks research network, we have been building on the Cost Benefit Analysis process by working with students undertaking thesis research to carry out the surveys in each of the parks. This is both a challenging and rewarding task for those students involved. It gives them an opportunity to undertake...more |
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Retezat secures LIFE project for Alpine conservation. 30 April 2006
Retezat NP in Romania has secured EU LIFE funding for a major new initiative for the conservation of alpine habitats. The Retezat Mountains are one of the most species rich areas dedicated to nature protection in Romania and are listed as a UNESCO Biosphere reserve because of their importance internationally. As one of Europe's best wilderness...more |
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Junior rangers train for a cold future 09 March 2006
Building on the experience of the Europarc Federation Junior Ranger project, junior rangers from PAN Park Retezat National Park in Romania have held the first winter junior rangers camp in Europe.A group of existing junior rangers along with future junior rangers from the local area joined up with senior rangers Florin Halastauan and Alin Ivascu...more |
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Get to know the new PAN Park: Retezat 16 January 2005
Information about Retezat National Park in Romania, the fifth and most recently certified PAN Park, is now available on the PAN Parks website.Similar in structure to the park pages dedicated to the other PAN Parks in the Our Parks section, detailed information about the flora, fauna, geomorphology, tourist facilities, points of interest, and...more |
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Retezat keen to become the fifth Certified PAN Park 28 January 2004
Retezat National Park, Romania formally applied for PAN Parks verification in December 2003.Application has been registered in the PAN Parks database and in the following weeks the details of the verification time-line will be developed.Retezat is the oldest national park in Romania, established in 1935 but a modern management was developed only a...more |